Origin and historical development

Today, Mexico is among the world's ten largest coffee producers, but the path to this position was neither straightforward nor conflict-free. Coffee arrived in New Spain with Spanish colonial rulers in the late 18th century. The first plantations were established in the humid, mountainous regions of what is now the state of Veracruz. The mild, subtropical climate and fertile volcanic soils offered ideal conditions for Coffea arabica and laid the foundation for a growing region that continues to shape the country's coffee-growing landscape.

In the 19th century, coffee increasingly became an export commodity. Large landowners dominated cultivation, while indigenous communities and farm laborers often worked under precarious conditions. After the Mexican Revolution (1910–1920), the ownership structure changed: many farms were divided, cooperatives were formed, and coffee became the central source of income for hundreds of thousands of small-scale producers, particularly in the south and east of the country.

Botanical basics of coffee cultivation

In Mexico, almost exclusively Arabica coffee is cultivated. The plants typically thrive at altitudes between 800 and 1,600 meters above sea level. Several factors are crucial:

• Climate: Alternating rainy and dry seasons, moderate temperatures (18–24 °C)

• Soil: Volcanic, well-drained soils with a high mineral content

• Shade: Traditionally, coffee is cultivated in the shade of inga, banana, or avocado trees, which promotes biodiversity and reduces erosion.

Botanically, coffee cultivation faces major challenges today. Diseases such as coffee rust (Hemileia vastatrix) have caused massive crop losses since the 2010s. Climate change exacerbates this problem, as rising temperatures and altered rainfall patterns create ideal conditions for pests.

The growing regions

Coffee cultivation in Mexico is strongly regionally diverse. The most important growing regions include:

• Veracruz: Historical cradle of Mexican coffee, known for balanced profiles

• Chiapas: Largest producer, often with strong, chocolatey coffees

• Oaxaca: Complex, often floral coffees from small-scale indigenous production.

• Puebla & Guerrero: Smaller, but qualitatively exciting regions

Veracruz, in particular, occupies a special position. The region stretches steeply from the coastal plains of the Gulf of Mexico up into the mountain ranges of the Sierra Madre Oriental. These dramatic differences in altitude create diverse microclimates, which are a crucial factor in the differentiated flavor profiles.

Coffee cultivation today

Coffee cultivation in Mexico today is a balancing act. On the one hand, there is a centuries-old tradition of small-scale farming; on the other hand, producers are under enormous economic pressure. Low world market prices, rising production costs, and labor shortages threaten the existence of many farms.

At the same time, a new understanding is emerging: quality over quantity. More and more producers are investing in variety selection, selective harvesting, precise processing, and direct trading relationships. Specialty coffee is therefore no longer a fringe phenomenon.

Coffee exports, price pressure and the shadow economy

In this context, a sensitive but crucial issue cannot be ignored: the connection between coffee exports, economic insecurity, and the presence of illegal drug economies. Particularly in remote mountain regions—precisely where coffee is traditionally grown—global market mechanisms have a direct impact on local realities.

When coffee prices fall below production costs, cultivation loses its function as a reliable source of livelihood. For many families, this means not only poverty but the complete loss of any planning security. In regions with weak state infrastructure, this creates spaces where illegal economic activities become more attractive, not for ideological reasons, but out of economic necessity.

Illegal crops like poppies or marijuana, as well as logistical activities within criminal networks, often offer stable demand, immediate payment, and less price volatility than the global coffee market. This dynamic is a symptom of an international trading system that systematically shifts risks onto producers.

Against this backdrop, high-quality coffee cultivation becomes more than just a matter of taste. Fair prices, long-term trading relationships, and investments in quality create real alternatives. They enable producers to maintain legal structures, secure jobs, and keep younger generations involved in agriculture. Specialty coffee thus becomes—beyond any romanticized notions—an instrument of economic stabilization.

Finca San José in Coatepec, Veracruz

Amidst this development, the traditional region of Coatepec is once again coming into sharper focus. Once internationally renowned, it lost its significance in the 20th century – not due to a lack of quality, but because of standardized marketing.

Near the town of Coatepec lies Finca San José, run by Alejandro Martinez Anaya. His farm covers a total of 250 hectares and exemplifies the transformation of Mexican coffee.

Publisher: Anacafe 14

Alejandro places particular emphasis on the Anacafe 14 variety, which is cultivated on approximately 60 hectares. This variety is a naturally occurring cross between Pacamara and a Catimor species. It was discovered in 1980 and later established as a resilient variety by the Guatemalan Coffee Association.

Its importance is growing rapidly today: Anacafe 14 combines high resistance to coffee rust with surprisingly complex sensory properties. This contradicts the long-held prejudice that resistant hybrids are necessarily limited in aroma.

Processing

The processing at Finca San José demonstrates patience and precision. After selective harvesting, the cherries are first fermented whole for 18 hours. Only on the following day do they undergo pulping and washing.

The coffee then dries for a long period of 32 days under a special roof structure called Casa Elba, which reduces direct sunlight and allows for slow, even drying. This method minimizes stress on the beans and promotes clarity and depth in the cup profile.

Historically, Mexican coffee was often considered a solid, nutty base for blends—reliable, but rarely spectacular. Producers like Alejandro Martinez Anaya are now painting a different picture. By combining resilient, modern hybrids, precise fermentation, slow, controlled drying, and deep regional knowledge, they are creating coffees that are redefining the potential of old growing regions like Coatepec.

Conclusion

Our Finca San José coffee from Mexico represents the qualitative transformation of a long-underestimated region. It comes from Veracruz, a region with volcanic soils, steep altitudes, and a deeply rooted coffee tradition that is being reinterpreted today.

The taste clearly and precisely reflects this origin: structured, balanced, and clean. Notes of almond, red plum, and cane sugar are clearly evident. Controlled fermentation, slow drying, and a resilient variety ensure depth and clarity.