Coffee is one of the world's most important commodities today, but its roots go back centuries. The legend of the Ethiopian shepherd Kaldi is just the beginning: Archaeological finds and historical records suggest that the Arabica plant (Coffea arabica) was used by local communities in Ethiopia long before Kaldi—presumably not as a beverage, but as an energy-rich porridge made from ground beans and fat.

In the 15th century, coffee found its way to the Arabian Peninsula, particularly Yemen, where it was valued in Sufi monasteries as a wake-up aid for nighttime prayers. From there, it spread via the port of Mocha (hence the term "mocha") to Persia, Egypt, and the Ottoman Empire. Through maritime trade by the Dutch and later the British, coffee seeds reached Asia, South America, and Africa. In many of these regions, coffee was cultivated in plantation systems—often under colonial control.

Coffee beans from Kenya

In contrast to Ethiopia, commercial coffee production in Kenya only began around 1893, when French missionaries brought the first seedlings from neighboring Tanzania. The British soon established large-scale cultivation areas, especially in the central highland regions around Mount Kenya and the Aberdare Range.

What's special about Kenya: Kenya adopted a quality classification system early on that distinguishes not only by size (AA, AB, PB, etc.), but also by density and freedom from defects. This begins at the washing stations and continues after drying in specialized mills. The green coffee is first sorted by size and density. A system of numbered sieves is used for sizing, the hole diameter of which determines which beans fall into which category. The highest classification, AA, includes beans with a diameter of approximately 7.2 millimeters. These are considered particularly large, uniform, and often carry the most complex flavors. The AB category includes beans between approximately 6.8 and 7.2 millimeters, which are generally also of high quality but have somewhat less depth. Peaberries (PB) are round, single beans that develop without a "twin" in the cherry and are valued for their intense aroma. Smaller or broken beans are classified into categories such as C, E, TT, or T and are usually used for the local market or blends.

In addition to size, the density of the beans plays a crucial role. Denser beans contain more cellular material and therefore have a more intense aroma potential. To determine this, sorting tables, vibrating screens, and air streams are used to separate out lighter beans. After physical sorting, a sensory test follows: Each batch is tasted to ensure it meets Kenya's high quality standards. The tasters pay attention to clarity, acidity, sweetness, body, and aftertaste. Only after this final approval do the coffees go on sale – either through the state-run Nairobi Coffee Exchange, where the best lots regularly fetch top prices, or through direct trade to international roasters. This system ensures that buyers have a reliable idea of ​​the expected quality and motivates producers to exercise the utmost care in cultivation and processing.

Today, many of Kenya's finest coffees come from small farms and cooperatives. These structures ensure that even smallholder farmers have access to high-quality processing facilities—a crucial factor in the global reputation of Kenyan coffee.

Climate, soil and varieties

Kenya offers almost ideal conditions for Arabica cultivation:

• Altitudes: 1,500–2,100 m above sea level – cool nights slow ripening, leading to more sugar formation
• Soils: Volcanic ash soils, rich in iron and phosphorus, promote nutrient uptake
• Climate: Two rainy seasons (March–May and October–December) ensure a consistent water supply
• Varieties: SL28 and SL34 are legendary for their fruity-vinous cup profiles, while Ruiru 11 and Batian are more resistant to diseases but can also deliver high quality

Our coffee of the month: Mutitu AA from Kirinyaga, Kenya

On the southern slopes of Mount Kenya, in the Kirinyaga region, lies the Mutitu Washing Station – founded in 1963, in the midst of a period of change when, after independence, Kenya began to place its agricultural economy more in the hands of local producers.

Mutitu is part of the Mutira Farmers Cooperative Society, which includes several washing stations. Around 750 smallholder farmers deliver their coffee cherries here. The average farm size is just 0.2 hectares – tiny plots, often located right next to a home. Macadamia trees, beans, or corn grow between the coffee trees – not only for subsistence, but also to provide shade and contribute to a stable ecosystem.

Harvesting and processing

1. Harvesting – exclusively by hand, several times per season to pick only ripe cherries
2. Same-day delivery – this keeps the fruit fresh and fermentation controllable
3. Pulping – mechanical removal of the pulp directly after delivery
4. Density sorting in water – inferior, lighter beans (“floaters”) are sorted out
5. Fermentation in two phases – first dry, then wet to completely dissolve the pulp and mucilage
6. Soaking for up to 24 hours – typical for Kenya; ensures brilliant acidity and clarity in taste
7. Drying on bunk beds – 10–14 days, with frequent turning for even drying
8. Storage in bodegas – cool, well-ventilated, before the green coffee is sorted, packaged and marketed

Flavor profile

Country of origin : Kenya
Region : Kirinyaga
Condition : Fully Washed
Variety : SL28, SL34, Batian, Ruiru 11
Cultivation height : 1,500 – 2,000 masl
Taste : White grapes, grapefruit, plum
Body : full
Acidity : sparkling
Sweetness : long lasting

The Mutitu AA will be available for espresso service during September and October and is also available as a filter and espresso roast!